Firstly, on our way to lunch we made an impromptu stop in Witham-on-the-Hill, an attractive stone built village off the A 6121, to look at the church. I've been past it any number of times, but this was my first sight of the interior. I think it would be fair to say we were both disappointed with it. It lacked something, but I'm not sure I can put my finger on what precisely...the numinous? There are fittings by George Gilbert Scott jr, but the screen in particular was a lack lustre performance. Sad too that the elaborate, pinnacled, font cover was languishing on the floor. Much better if it and the font were moved into the centre of the nave and the cover, restored to its rightful position coloured and gilded in the medieval manner. At least there wasn't too much clutter.
The exterior had much more going for it with the Georgian tower and spire to the side of the church,1737-38, the design of George Portwood sen. of Stamford. It is a robust design of quiet dignity, part classical and part gothic, perhaps a little quixotic too.
After lunch we headed into Rutland and yet another attractive stone built village - we are rather blessed with them in this part of the world - Clipsham. An estate village too, which is always a good thing. The church is close to the hall - owned, I think, by the Davenport Hanleys - and is reached by a wide gravel drive from the village street. The delight begins there for on the north side of the drive is a superbly constructed dry stone wall. A fantastic piece of craftsmanship, and love, as each course is set a few millimetres in from the course below. That is not all, for the entrance to the churchyard is marked by gothic cast iron gates and stone gothic gate piers. It's tempting to ascribe them to Edward Browning who restored the church in 1858. And so to the church a small structure with a thick set west tower and spire - unusually detailed too. Striking too the great square headed Dec windows of the south aisle.
The interior is a delight, low, spreading, very atmospheric and full of fittings. Much of it dates to Browning's restoration but there is an earlier reredos (Commandments and Moses & Aaron) perched on the north wall. The long-slanting light contributed greatly to the sense of place. The stained and painted glass, by Wailes, which fills all the windows is very good. (18.09.2019: I learnt today that the lovely encaustic tiling is probably from Godwin of Lugwardine, designed by that great Gothic master John Pollard Seddon.) I think of all the churches restored by Edward Browning I have visited this is about his best. A schatzkammer, yes, but without the slightly oppressive, wilful quality of his work at Uffington. I had been to Clipsham years ago, but didn't remember it to be so good. Virtually clutter free too!
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