We had a great time wandering around the astonishing 'Goldmark Gallery'- I wish I had the money to buy something! The centre of the town is a small picturesque market place with the parish church to the south (The interior is far too dark to photograph and suffers from a harsh 19th century restoration and too much modern clutter does have a lovely window by Comper by the way of compensation. But not enough.) The west end of the High Street is dominated by Uppingham School, one of Britain's leading Public Schools. The architecture evokes that of an Oxbridge college. The main façade is by Sir Thomas Jackson, the architect who did so much to construct the modern face of Oxford, in his usual 'Anglo-Jackson' manner. In stark contrast the Great Hall, which is based on that at Kirby Hall just over the border in Northamptonshire, is by that neglected Arts & Crafts architect by Ernest Newton - a much more severe, and indeed sublime, design that gains much from the choice of a warmer stone than the cold grey of Jackson's work. It dates from the 1920s. Arts & Crafts too is the diminutive town hall. Uppingham, which has this wonderfully calm atmosphere, is also blessed in still retaining a lot of its proper shops - butchers, ironmongers, bakers etc.
Wednesday, 26 October 2016
Uppingham
Back to quiet pleasures. The bf came over for a few days the other week, and on the first full day of his visit we headed west into Rutland. We ended up in the small, perfectly formed market town of Uppingham. Another one of those market towns that Britain is so blessed in possessing. Until recent development Uppingham was essentially a long winding street lined with stone built cottages and houses occupying the crest of a hill that falls sharply away to the south. It is very attractive - the older houses are made of oolitic limestone and mainly the orange-y ironstone (actually Middle Lias Marlstone). Both are Jurassic in origin.
We had a great time wandering around the astonishing 'Goldmark Gallery'- I wish I had the money to buy something! The centre of the town is a small picturesque market place with the parish church to the south (The interior is far too dark to photograph and suffers from a harsh 19th century restoration and too much modern clutter does have a lovely window by Comper by the way of compensation. But not enough.) The west end of the High Street is dominated by Uppingham School, one of Britain's leading Public Schools. The architecture evokes that of an Oxbridge college. The main façade is by Sir Thomas Jackson, the architect who did so much to construct the modern face of Oxford, in his usual 'Anglo-Jackson' manner. In stark contrast the Great Hall, which is based on that at Kirby Hall just over the border in Northamptonshire, is by that neglected Arts & Crafts architect by Ernest Newton - a much more severe, and indeed sublime, design that gains much from the choice of a warmer stone than the cold grey of Jackson's work. It dates from the 1920s. Arts & Crafts too is the diminutive town hall. Uppingham, which has this wonderfully calm atmosphere, is also blessed in still retaining a lot of its proper shops - butchers, ironmongers, bakers etc.
We had a great time wandering around the astonishing 'Goldmark Gallery'- I wish I had the money to buy something! The centre of the town is a small picturesque market place with the parish church to the south (The interior is far too dark to photograph and suffers from a harsh 19th century restoration and too much modern clutter does have a lovely window by Comper by the way of compensation. But not enough.) The west end of the High Street is dominated by Uppingham School, one of Britain's leading Public Schools. The architecture evokes that of an Oxbridge college. The main façade is by Sir Thomas Jackson, the architect who did so much to construct the modern face of Oxford, in his usual 'Anglo-Jackson' manner. In stark contrast the Great Hall, which is based on that at Kirby Hall just over the border in Northamptonshire, is by that neglected Arts & Crafts architect by Ernest Newton - a much more severe, and indeed sublime, design that gains much from the choice of a warmer stone than the cold grey of Jackson's work. It dates from the 1920s. Arts & Crafts too is the diminutive town hall. Uppingham, which has this wonderfully calm atmosphere, is also blessed in still retaining a lot of its proper shops - butchers, ironmongers, bakers etc.
Labels:
architecture,
England,
Ernest Newton,
Limestone Belt,
Rutland,
Sir Thomas Jackson,
Uppingham
Saturday, 22 October 2016
Own work: The Green Man II
Sunday, 9 October 2016
Own work: The Rustiche of Sebastiano Serlio XII
I've now completed fifteen pictures in the Rustiche series from the Extraordinario Libro d'Architettura of Sebastiano Serlio. Half way. So I'm taking a rest, and for a few months will be drawing and painting other things!
Wednesday, 5 October 2016
London and Walsingham
The other event of the week was of a totally different nature. And one I'm reticent to speak of, partly because at times I am such a low-grade Christian, but that was in its quiet way such a profound experience that I feel compelled to share. On Saturday I joined a local pilgrimage party and headed east across the great, flat extent of the Fens and into Norfolk and to Walsingham. Here is my post from last year. The morning's weather was superb again. Walsingham has this amazing air of serenity that, I think, is quite unique. The sun was warm and the apple trees were heavy with fruit in the garden of St Seraphim's church, like a painting by Samuel Palmer. The afternoon was, however, unfortunately wet. After attending two indifferent services in the Anglican shrine (Pilgrim Mass and Sprinkling - both meagre food for pilgrims) I found myself attending Orthodox vespers upstairs at the Anglican Shrine. The chapel was minute - hardly really more than a landing. So narrow a space that the iconstasis had room only for two doors instead of the usual three. An elderly priest lead the service, supported by a choir of one - I think it was his wife. From such meagre resources was created something incredibly moving, incredibly spiritual and powerful. Numinous. Transcendent. The congregation varied between two and seven, but that didn't matter. It had a deep integrity that somehow what was going on downstairs in the Anglican bit simply did not possess.
I've been attracted to Orthodoxy for a long time, but rarely attended a service. The opportunity has rarely arisen. To attend therefore something that is so freighted with expectation is to risk disappointment. I needn't have worried, the experience exceeded expectation. I need to return.
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