Sunday, 17 October 2021

Bath II: Bathwick

     Our hotel was situated in Henrietta St, east over the river Avon from the city centre.  A sinuous street of tall pale stone terraces that flows north from Laura Place, following the line of the river.  It was our first visit to Bathwick, as this area of the City is called. The approach from the city is mightily impressive, relying on a sort of coup de theatre from the intimate to the spacious; from the picturesque to the formal; from bricolage to stylistic uniformity.  Chaos to serenity and clarity. Standing in Laura Place with Argyll St and Adam's Pulteney Bridge behind and Great Pulteney St, long and immensely wide, ahead of you, the contrast between the city and the new suburb could not be clearer.  In the distance is the Holburne of Menstrie Museum, set within a great hexagonal park.  It has to be said that the museum, originally built in 1796 as a hotel, is too small a structure for the scale of things - I can't decide whether that is a fault or a deliberate act to create the illusion of yet greater distance and scale.  In all though one of the greatest pieces of town planning in late Georgian Britain, the work of architect Thomas Baldwin (1750-1820).
      You might even want to call it Baroque, and why not?  Oh yes, I know that the style is Neo-classical - Bathwick was laid out 1788-1806 after all - but the facades are merely  decoration, the icing on a sort of urban form that only appears with the emergence of the Baroque.  It could be said to be one of the defining elements of the style.  I should add here that Robert Adam's original plan for Bathwick was even more Baroque owing something to Wren's plan for the rebuilding of the City of London, and to the sort of urban forms one associates with Grand Siècle France.  Styles do not die; they are not un-invented.  Sometimes think of Art and Architectural historians as taxonomists, rather like 19th century naturalists.  They might even throw in a few terminal dates too.  It's not as though these categories, such as Baroque and Neo-Classical, don't exist only that sometimes the definitions are understood as antithetical to one another, when in fact, there are always elements of continuity.  I would argue that this plan represents such a continuity, maybe even a revival. 
     I didn't realise until researching this post that the Holburne Museum is the focus of a 'patte d'oie' of three radiating streets.  Well, you can't get more Baroque than a 'patte d'oie'.  Baroque too in the sense of individual units, in this case the house, being subsumed into the greater whole for the sake of urban theatre.  And that, it could be argued, is also one of the tendencies of Modernity.  But, alas, for all that grandeur and social cachet the scheme, with its long 'palace fronts', was not completed. As with the rest of Bath, development ceased by 1820.  Terraces abruptly halt and the next buildings in the street date from the late 19th century. Only on Henrietta St, being that bit closer to the city centre, is there a sense of continuity with a line of early to mid Victorian villas on the west side of the street. Lovely they are too.

Addendum: The park, the Sydney Gardens, was originally developed as a Pleasure Garden on the lines of the famous Vauxhall Gardens in south London.  It is, apparently, the last remaining pleasure garden in the country.  The Museum building was originally larger, being built to house a ballroom and all sorts of facilities for visitors, but was shorn of its wings - had its wings clipped! (sorry) - when it became a museum and gallery.  The architect was Sir Reginald Blomfield. 






















Friday, 15 October 2021

Bath I: Baroque in the City

      Just back from a few days in Bath - a treat to celebrate the bf's significant birthday. We couldn't have had nicer weather, for what was our second visit. Our first visit is chronicled is here. Our two days away were spent mainly spent ambling around the city, immersed in a mixture of shopping and architecture. However our peregrinations did take in deliberate visits to The Museum of East Asian Art (which we enjoyed) and two favourite bookshops of ours: Persephone Books and Bath Old Books, without which a visit to the city would be incomplete. We also went on a jaunt to Bradford-on-Avon yesterday, but more about that in future posts.
      As you can imagine I took a fair number of photographs, but I'd like to start with those I took of the baroque buildings of the city - an attempt to catalogue the Baroque architecture of the city, a style not readily associated with Bath where the overwhelming  majority of historic buildings labour under the undue influence of English Neo-Palladianism. With the buildings that will appear in the next blog about our little jaunt down the line to Bradford-on-Avon it is possible to discern a local Baroque style. Firstly the majority of buildings have a resault, or risalto, of a single bay emphasized by a stack of aedicules - each essentially of a single storey in height. Perhaps they can be related to Vanbrugh House in Oxford, where the resault consists of a single giant order aedicule. Secondly the influence of French architecture. One way of understanding the rise of Neo-Palladianism is to see it as a self-conscious attempt to break the French influence in British art.













     We ate so well in Bath, it has to be said, there were two particular highlights. There  was dinner on our first night in the city at 'Sally Lunn's', North Parade Passage; I had a Pork and Walnut terrine, followed by a beautiful looking, and tasting, beef pie. Beef pie was also on the menu at the vibrant 'Corkage', Chapel Row, where we ate last night. The food was mightily inventive, and it being the bf's actually birthday we did rather indulge; pigeon, sardine, pie and marrow, lemon posset. We then headed off to the Canary Gin Bar in Queen St. Finally I'd like to mention the wonderful breakfasts at our hotel, The Kennard on Henrietta St.

Monday, 11 October 2021

London II: Sunday in the City

     What to do on my day off when I wasn't playing shopkeep? I took the tube into the City, travelling through wonderfully atmospheric and grimy cuttings, evocative of the Industrial Revolution, to Barbican and an empty City basking in late summer sunshine. From the station I walked west to Smithfield, through a dense network of streets and alleys to St Bartholomew the Great; church and urban fabric a great meshing of palimpsests. The scale human. The density high. Higher still until 1913 when there was a slum 'clearance' scheme in Cloth Fair to the north of the church, that saw the demolition of Medieval and post-medieval houses.

     From Smithfield I wove my way south - a little directionless, but what did that matter? - finding myself in another city - of monstrous bland and blank office buildings. I shave to admit an ambiguity in my response to these buildings, symbols of the pre-eminence of the City in the world banking, I acknowledge. However they just don't make a city. A place of anomie and dislocation, of bland corporatism. Credit though to the City authorities for the wonderful garden created in the ruins of a bombed out Christchurch Greyfriars. Then unexpectedly the high dome of St Paul's and the peeling of bells. My new destination. Close to, the noise of bells was overwhelming and deeply emotional. 

     I stopped for refreshment, and then headed back towards Barbican tube station, stopping-off at a couple of very interesting examples of post War classicism: St Vedast Foster Lane, rebuilt after the War by Stephen Dykes Bower perhaps one of the best post-war restorations, and the Wood St Police Station by McMorran and Whitby. Not a particularly good photo of either building, I'm afraid. They both deserve a post to themselves. I arrived, eventually, at the labyrinthine Barbican Centre, where I had a mediocre lunch. It's been a while since I tasted the delights of British institutional cooking.

     The jaunt ended in the delightful Charterhouse Square. A place like Cloth Fair that is much to my taste - humane in scale, complex in the interplays of history, style, materials and space.
































Tuesday, 5 October 2021

London I: pop-up at Pentreath and Hall.

     I can't believe that is over a fortnight now since I returned from two weeks in London, where I had the good fortune to host a pop-up exhibition of my artwork at Pentreath and Hall. Rather invigorating being back in the capital. Here are some photos of the event. 






     Before opening up of a morning I took the opportunity to explore Bloomsbury. As you can imagine I ate out a lot. So what would I recommend in Bloomsbury? The best food I ate was a lunch at Noble Rot, the wine bar in Lambs Conduit St, for food and atmosphere 'Ciao Bella' also in Lambs Conduit St. - a really vibrant 'old school' Italian restaurant. Good fish & chips at North Sea Fish in Leigh St, good pizza at Franco Manco by Russell St tube. I enjoyed the food at Hare & Tortoise in the Brunswick Centre, but the restaurant is impossibly noisy. I also went to a Greek restaurant, which shall be nameless: the food was good but the service was lamentable.










Saturday, 2 October 2021

Cenarth

      On our return home from our stay in Cardigan we stopped at Cenarth to visit the falls and the bridge.  A Romantic, harmonic coupling of nature and man.  Of Romanticism and Enlightenment.  And a lovely thing is this bridge, the work of David Evans, built between 1785-7.  David was the son of William Edwards, Methodist minister and architect, builder of the famous bridge at Pontypridd.  Edwards senior also built the Wychtree Bridge at Morriston which, alas, was shamefully demolished by the local council in the late Fifties.  These elegant structures are some of the architectural and engineering marvels of not only Wales but the whole Kingdom.

    It has to be said that the falls, which have attracted any number of artists during the Romantic period and since, were a little quiet the day we were there; it being the end of summer and all that.  In full spate, however, they are apparently quite the thing. 









Friday, 1 October 2021

Aberystwyth

     The first full day of our trip to Cardigan and a little jaunt up to Aberystwyth, a place that could claim to be the nation's cultural capital.  And a grey day we had of it.

     The old town is a dense network of narrow streets. Very urban feeling, very busy. A place, I suggest, of contrasts. Seaside and culture. Working class and middling. County and cosmopolitan. A place of faded respectability. I don't want to suggest that this is a place of conflict, but I suspect that the working class is slowly being ousted (not physically but visually) as the ordinariness of life is being erased as shops such as bakers and butchers disappear from the streets. Supermarkets, and the internet, have become the repositories of the ordinary. The streets are slowly becoming the place of the extra-ordinary - delis and art galleries. Places that are not everyday destinations. Aberystwyth is not the only witness of this process; it is evident too in Cardigan. Gone too are the local garage and the other sorts of workshops - the painter & decorator's yard. And here is where some nats in Wales get it wrong. They see it purely in terms of us and them. However it is a country wide phenomenon. I've long seen it in action in Stamford, Lincolnshire, where thankfully the weekly market helps keeps feet on the ground. It's there too in the Cotswolds and famously in Frome, where now apparently it is difficult for working class families to afford to live. The ideal is of course a 'mixed economy'. Gosh, I hadn't intended when setting out on this post to have such a rant, but I do like to see proper shops - as much as I like galleries and delis.

     All that said there is much architectural interest in Aberystwyth. Pride of place going to the Old College, built originally as a hotel it is a prime example of hard, muscular Gothic that dominated the Revival during the 1850 & 60s. It is pretty aggressive and wilful, endlessly inventive. Restless. Unyielding and relentless. The scale is massive, which is fine for the Promenade, but overwhelming for the gentle classicism of Laura Place behind. It is the work of J P Seddon and has a complex construction history - starting out as an hotel (grandiose and failed) and ending up as part of the University of Aberystwyth. Tamed a little too in the process. Alas and alack! currently the Old College is in bit of a state and is need of some attention.