Friday 17 May 2019

Vale of Glamorgan

     We've been out on a mystery tour, thanks to the bf.  We headed west along the M4 (while I came up with ever wilder guesses as to our destination - the 'Pobol y Cwm Experience', the 'The Esma Cannon Museum'?) and into the rather posh Vale of Glamorgan. I was in the need of cheering up and the bf knew what would help, and after traversing some ridiculously narrow country lanes (thanks to the sat-nav) we arrived at the village of Llancarfan and the church.
     And here the narrative ends, except to say that there was I happily snapping away inside only to espy a notice stating that to post images of the church, even on social media, one had to seek permission from the PCC, which seems an inordinately and ultimately futile way of controlling images of the church, and one I won't endorse by applying.

     Our second port of call was eminently middle-class community of Cowbridge, a linear community along what was once the main road west out of Cardiff.  It has a not inconsiderable charm. The church, dedicated to The Holy Cross, is a big muscular sort of building, but was actually a chapel-of-ease to Llanbethan.  It forms an interesting grouping with the Grammar School and town gate. The interior highlights the problems of both using and spatially unifying a structure that was built for a standing, not sitting, congregation. It is also an example of what one could call civic Anglicanism - something that tends to leave me cold.  First however let's start with the exterior which is varied and interesting. The brooding, defensive-looking central tower dominates.  The double nave is long and low - in common with many Welsh churches the clerestory is absent - the windows are all Perp.  The E end is complex, even picturesque, with chancel, N chapel (with blocked windows) and deeply projecting vestry.  The inside is more varied still consisting of essentially three disparate spaces: nave, tower and chancel.  The former chancel chapel is screened off and closed off which is a shame as it would add a welcome unexpected element to the interior.  The best things are the mural monuments and the inner door of the porch by George Pace on his best behaviour, and is really quite sensitive. It should look even better with age. Otherwise it is far too dark and there is too much semi-secular clutter.  The fine spaciousness of the nave with its elegant perp arcade deserves better. It would benefit from a wholesale removal of pews and a re-flooring in stone.





















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