King's Lynn: The Other Buildings

   I thought I'd share some more of the photos I took on my visit.  I suppose you could say that King's Lynn is a obviously liminal place - an over used word of late.  And there lies some its uniqueness.  I've decided to put the photos roughly  in historical order, starting with St George's Guildhall on King St., late Medieval and now a theatre and the home of the Arts Centre.  Plays were staged here quite early in its history; it's said that Shakespeare played here.

   Close by a narrow lane takes you down to the swirling, eddying River Ouse and the ferry over the river to West Lynn.

   The other surviving guildhall in the town belonged to the Guild of the Holy Trinity, so powerful it became the basis for the town council.  The Hall (with gable) dates from 1421, the porch to the left is Elizabethan, on the right is Gaol, 1748, by William Tuck, and on the extreme left is part of the Town Hall by Tree and Price (never heard of them), 1895.

   This is the Customs House by Henry Bell, 1683, originally a Merchant's Exchange.  A lovely building, small but suitably monumental.

   At the far end of King's Street from The Custom's House, is the vast Tuesday Market (the building on the left is the former Corn Exchange, 1854, by Cruso and Maberly), and beyond that is the North End, which housed the fishing community, and the Chapel of St Nicholas, currently closed for restoration work.

Behind the Corn Exchange, on Common Staithe Quay is the Pilot's Office

   Back down King St, and over the Purfleet and opposite the Custom's House, is the very picturesque King's Staithe Square.

   And finally back to the Town Hall. This really is a gem of a building. A design that is both rigorous and full of charm. It will only improve with age.

King's Lynn: St Margaret with St Mary Magdalene and all the Virgin Saints

   Before you think I have a complete downer on King's Lynn, I thought I'd share a few of the photos I took on my visit.  

   As you can see St Margaret's is a big church (235ft long) and bigger still before the loss of the outer north aisle. Like the marvellous churches in the marsh west of Lynn St Margaret's looks as though it has strayed over the border from Lincolnshire or beyond; one of the reasons for that being that is built entirely of stone rather than that flint and stone combination one tends to associate with Norfolk. Not only one of the three Medieval parish churches in Lynn, the others being St James (demolished) and All Saints, it was also a Priory church founded about 1100; in addition the North End of the town was served by the colossal chapel of St Nicholas.  I am not entirely certain but I think St Margaret's may have been where Margery Kempe the English mystic  and writer worshipped. The nave however is not Medieval but the work (1745-6) of Matthew Brettingham, the Neo-palladian architect, a rebuilding of what was destroyed when the lead spire on the south west tower came crashing down during a storm. Perhaps not as bad as it could have been. Not only is the church missing the outer north aisle, charnel chapel and spire, it is also missing the central tower which was octagonal in plan, constructed of wood and sheathed in lead.  A version of sorts of the central Octagon at Ely a few miles down the Ouse to the s. Entire the church must have been a curious, but splendid sight. The skyline of Lynn is still pretty impressive when seen from the far bank of the Ouse or from the bridge that carries the A17 over the river.
   The interior is impressive rather than lovely though the choir is rich in furnishings, and is the most interesting architecturally: Bodley's great reredos of 1889 is what interested me most.  St Margaret's also contains two of the largest Medieval memorial brasses in England.  The open space on the north side of the church is the Saturday Market and was the centre of Medieval civic life in King's Lynn.

King's Lynn and the Emblematic City

 “When an individual has been swept up into the world of symbolic mysteries, nothing comes of it; nothing can come of it, unless it has been associated with the earth, unless it has occurred when that individual was in the body…. Only if you first return to your body, to your earth, can individuation take place; only then does the thing become true.”

  Yesterday I re-read the poet Kathleen Raine's paper 'William Blake's Fourfold London' which she gave at The Temenos Academy way back in 1993. In it Raine (1908-2003) discusses the last of Blake's Prophetic Books 'Jerusalem' and its relationship to the London of Blake's day and our own.  To help her she uses two significant ideas of the French philosopher and theologian Henri Corbin (1903-1978): 'emblematic city' and 'imaginal'.

   The first term, and the one that really concerns this post, describes how certain cities are 'a great mediating symbol, at once an embodiment of imaginative vision, and empowered to to awaken that vision, that perception of invisible values and meanings, in the minds of its inhabitants'.  (I think we ignore this attribute of the city at our peril.) For Corbin the city has the potential to act as a bridge between the world of the senses and what he termed the Mundus Imaginalis - the Alam Al-Mithal, the Imaginal World - not, as you might think, the world of the imagination, or the Unconscious; but the world of the spirit (ie the Unseen) and of the soul; the dwelling of images and archetypes. One might see it a fusion of Jungian and Sufi thought.

   

   For me King's Lynn, in its small mundane way, is freighted with the possibilities of being an 'emblematic city'. It is the town where Vaughan Williams came looking for folk songs, an ancient port with a half-Celtic name and a member of the Hanseatic League, where pilgrims from Northern Europe arrived on their way to Walsingham. The birthplace of Vancouver and Fanny Burney, as well as the late Medieval mystic Margery Kempe.  And I suppose that's why I'm always disappointed with it.  I have, probably, too high an expectation of it. Don't get me wrong there is some really good architecture there: medieval churches, guildhalls and warehouses and any amount of Georgian houses, but too much has been lost, destroyed to be replaced with the utilitarian and the common place for the town to be truly satisfying or to bear the weight of my imaginings.
   In addition, in gathering my thoughts together to write this post I was reminded of C. P. Snow's 'Two Cultures'.  He was talking about science and art, but there is the same sort of binary conflict happening in King's Lynn; on the one hand is the commercial heart of the town which is busy and hard and ugly and generic.  There is nothing local and peculiar to modern King's Lynn. Its back is turned to the river - the Ouse, which here so close to the sea is wide and muddy-coloured and tidal.  The town feels disconnected, too, from that great agricultural area that surrounds it.  And, on the other hand, there is the old heart of the town which is so beautiful but feels too enclosed, as though it was under siege, indeed too self-regarding to allow the visitor to enter into any profound dialogue with it. I found that particularly true of the Arts Centre on King St., which seemed to be an altogether aloof organisation.  (I feel the same about Snape Maltings which, I've decided, is not meant for the casual visitor. Both are like entering into a temple of a faith to which you don't belong.  Both are really only meant for those initiated into the mysteries.)  

   It could be argued that the streets of the old town have ceased to be the centre of civic life and become a rather posh dormitory suburb. It has lost the power to evoke in us 'that perception of invisible values and meanings'. What perhaps exists is merely the shell. Sometimes - at, say, the steps down to the ferry over the Ouse to West Lynn, or at the Pilot's Office on Common Staithe Quay, with a Georgian pub, 'The Crown and Mitre' across Ferry Lane for company - does one gets some sort of sense of the past, echoing Yeats 'I wished for a world where I could discover this tradition perpetually, and not in pictures and poems only, but in tiles around the chimney-piece, and in the hangings that kept out the draught.'  Museums are not enough.  And in any case they are ways in which objects can be denuded of their emblematic and imaginal powers. Perhaps it is too late for King's Lynn and a myriad of other places, in any case, for the warp and the thrum have been severed.

The present decadence of the arts and all the more or less ineffectual attempts to find other foundations upon which to rebuild them than those of tradition, arises quite simply from the disappearance of the idea of an intelligible world (to use Plato’s phrase), a spiritual order, a world of the soul, whose existence is not that of the fleeting images of nature.